MarilyninOttawa
The topic this evening is 'Preparing to Show Orchids'. For those Safariers who are not particularly interested in showing orchids, this session should still give you some pointers as to how to get orchids to grow and bloom well.

Big shows and the registration process can be exhausting - but - this session deals with the activities leading up to the big day.

We all likely remember when we first saw orchids in a handsome display at a show. It may have been a dramatic exhibit of plants such as this one, assembled in a trader's canoe. The occasion was the Canadian Orchid Congress and the canoe was used to imply traders activities in the past. This display could have been the first time the viewer saw corsage orchids (Cattleyas) presented as part of a living plant! It was possibly at a show that we became inspired to become orchid growers and to someday proudly show what we had bloomed. We may not have realized it then, but a lot of preparation goes into showing orchids. In order to achieve the very best, an exhibitor must choose healthy stock, grow it well, care for the developing flowers and transport it safely to the show. Lets get prepared to do as good a job!

Exhibitors have a variety of goals in mind when they show an orchid. Some wish to proudly show their very first orchid whose blooming event thankfully coincided with the local show date. Maybe they will win a ribbon and maybe not but they will have succeeded in blooming what they once only dreamed of.

Rosettes, ribbons, trophies and maybe an award or two are a definite lure for some exhibitors while others simply wish to assist their club by supplying additional plants for a larger exhibit.

In larger displays, flaws are likely not seen by the casual observer but in smaller exhibits or when a plant is on the judging table, flaws are much more apparent. Despite the pretty flowers, yellowed or spotted leaves stand out in stark contrast which can be a turn off to the viewer. picture It is therefore in the best interest of the exhibitor to groom plants before the show. Not only will plants be at their best but a ribbon or two may be more likely forthcoming. Furthermore, their fine plants will help set goals for all those future exhibitors.

John_in_Arcadia_CA
Here in So Cal with our hard water, we used to clean the plant then take soft cloth dipped in milk to polish the leaves. It seemed to work well and left a nice gleam to the leaves.

MarilyninOttawa
Whatever is used to remove lime spots, I encourage you to clean only the leaf upper surface. Lemon juice (diluted) is a good idea.

Gaile
Why only the top surface?

MarilyninOttawa
Most but not all orchids have their pores on the leaf undersurface where the surface is also less waxy. It is unwise to use any product that might block the breathing pores (stomata) since this is where the orchid transpires. Milk, leaf shine products, etc could block the pores. Also, the undersurface is less likely to have residue since it faces downwards.

1) Preparing the plant(s)

The process of showing orchids begins long before the show date. Protect show plants from conditions that damage foliage and new growths. Most orchids keep their leaves for several years or even longer. A spot of drought or too little shade can produce effects such as accordion-pleated foliage in Miltonia or an unsightly brown papery patch on a Cattleya leaf. picture

Divide and repot orchids in their season but well before a show so that they will be secure in their containers.

While it is normal for some orchids to develop aerial roots out of their containers, this can present a problem when transporting and staging exhibits. Exposed roots of this Cattleya will likely become damaged during transport. The plant also looks as if it needs to be repotted which is not the best message to send to the viewing public. picture

barbara_in_no._CA
Big problem when transporting Vandas as well.

MarilyninOttawa
I agree, Barbara. We want to keep all those precious roots intact. I have seen baskets suspended from wires attached to a coat rack installed in a van. The show provided natural tree branches to suspend the Vandas for show.

An orchid will likely recover from superficial damage such as broken leaf tips and sunburn but the telltale signs will persist and could render the plant unsuitable for display where the foliage will be easily seen.

Catasetum foliage may be deciduous but marks of an early thrips and aphid attack will mar the leaves for an entire season. picture

Infestations of Red Spider Mites are not always easily diagnosed. This suspicious lesion on a Cattleya aurantiaca proved to be a mite infestation which was eventually controlled but with a lasting scar left on the leaves and pseudobulb. picture

Control pests, water and fertilize with care, avoid spraying with hard water or products that leave an unsightly residue.

Be careful not to let water lie in crowns. Crown rot as seen here in a new Catasetum shoot not only puts a plant at risk and damages its appearance but it also reduces the flowering capacity for a minimum of one season. picture

A variety of fungi can mar foliage. Plants grown too hot or too cold, too wet or under too humid conditions and without adequate ventilation can develop unsightly foliage. picture

Questionable specimens should either be tested or isolated from the collection. This plant tested positive for Cymbidium Mosaic Virus. picture

Remove virused plants from the collection and do not take them to a show. Not only are they a menace but they often present unsightly foliage. picture

Grow plants as well as possible for maximum bloom quality and production. A few days before show time, select plants at their blooming prime. While grooming should be a year round task, it is worthwhile checking that all debris including dead foliage, dried backbulbs, and recently fallen blooms have been removed. Tweezers are useful tools when grooming tiny specimens.

Examine the foliage, especially the undersurface, for signs of scale and other pests. picture Do your fellow exhibitors a favor by leaving infested plants at home. Hosing off aphids as a quick fix inevitably leaves a few hitchhikers that will spread to other plants at a show.

Gently wipe the upper surface of each leaf with a clean damp paper towel. You can use diluted milk, lemon juice or plain clean water. Change towels between plants. Repeat if necessary at the show to remove travel dust.

When foliage is unsightly because of simple physical damage, we can still make good use of the blooms. Blooms can be entered in a cut flower or decorative class. In a large display, minor problems may disappear amongst the mass of blooms. An alternative is to remove the damaged portions from an otherwise large healthy specimen but this should be done only as a last resort.

2) Training the inflorescence

Inflorescences are soft when immature but as they elongate, can become brittle and inflexible. As tiny flower buds develop, they will adjust their position according to the direction of light and the plant habit. Resupination (lip becoming lowermost) happens a few days before the flower opens.

The best time to stake an inflorescence is when it is young. This way, flower buds and flowers will be carried to best advantage. Use a long enough stake to support what is expected to develop.

Inflorescences can be staked to be upright or arching. Phalaenopsis and Odontoglossum are staked vertical over their entire length or partway which permits the flower-bearing part to drape gracefully in a cascade of wonderful blooms.

Use only new bamboo or sterilized metal or plastic stakes. Be certain that a stake will not wobble during transport.

Gently train a developing inflorescence by securing it along its length as it elongates using twists of waxed florist tape. Never attach the tie so tightly that the stalk becomes deformed.

During the entire training process until flowering, keep the plant in the same position relative to the direction of light. A mark on the pot can help with realignment if the container has to be moved. Stakes are sometimes removed for display purposes but if this is not the intention, choose a stake style to complement rather than detract from the flowers.

3) Care of the flowers

Developing flower buds are very susceptible to physical damage such as bruising, sun or frost burn, and insect predation and this can happen weeks before the show. A tiny scar on an equally tiny bud may not be noticeable but the damaged part can become an unsightly blemish when the bud expands to open.

Protect developing buds from damage by paying close attention to culture.

Control insect pests especially thrips and aphids preferably before the buds form. Thrips nymphs will feed just under the petal edges of an opening bud leaving silvery scars to mar an otherwise beautiful flower. picture

Botrytis fungus is a problem when nights are cool, humidity is high and there is poor air circulation. Affected buds and flowers will develop unsightly speckles. Pay special attention to ventilation in the weeks leading up to a show, especially if it is during a change of season.

Bud drop is a maddening habit of some Dendrobium and Phalaenopsis plants. A sharp change in temperature and humidity is suggested as the cause but you may not be able to stop bud drop from happening. If you have plants that are particularly susceptible to bud drop, bear this in mind before choosing them for the center of a display. Chances are that the changes experienced on the way to the show or at the show will cause buds to change color and drop.

Dislodged pollen can cause flowers to collapse or to change color.

John_in_Arcadia_CA
That has been true too many times!!

MarilyninOttawa
It happens to everyone on occasion. Male flowers of Catasetum are notorious for launching pollinia at the slightest touch to one of the two trigger appendages that protrude from the column. Be absolutely certain that Catasetum spikes do not touch anything while in transit. I attach cords to either side of the stake and use these to keep the flowers away from the sides of the container. Thankfully, flower collapse happens about a day after the pollen is lost so ribbon judging may not be affected if the worst happens.

Cymbidiums are also susceptible. A dislodged anther cap can be sufficient to tarnish an otherwise pristine bloom. Pure color Cymbidiums that lack the ability to express red pigment and are seemingly immune to the problem.

4) Pests and Diseases

Pests and diseases have no business at a show but that does not mean that they will not be present. We all have a duty to ensure that our plants are not a source of problems for other exhibitors. Greenhouse growers are encouraged to check especially yellow flowers and new succulent growths for aphids before bringing the plants to the show. While a blast of water or even soapy water will remove most, some nymphs may linger.

Flower thrips, and a nasty hermaphroditic thrips that affects Paphs and other orchids, Heliothrips haemorrhoidalis, can spread to other plants at a show. Since they are hermaphrodites, only one is needed to start a destructive infestation that is challenging to eliminate. picture

What you see is an adult that is 1.5 mm long. You can see the individual leaf epidermis cells, such is the magnification! Since the adults are black, they are quite easily seen. They also move fairly quickly so if they are moving, you can see them. The nymphs take some getting used to. You will mostly see the feeding area and the reddish droplets which they excrete.

These Heliothrips are a terrible pest which is why I deal with them in detail. Adult thrips will hide in potting media while juveniles will feed in groups on the leaves and inflorescence bracts of Paphiopedilum, Phragmipedium, and Disa. They seem to prefer feeding on the flowers of the Cattleya alliance. picture

art,simpsonville_sc
How do we know if we have them if they are so small? What do we need to look for

MarilyninOttawa
When you look beneath the foliage of target plants (as mentioned previously) you may see the adults or you may see the damage they have inflicted. In Phrags and Paphs, the patches will be rusty and this may extend to the new growth. If you find one, you must examine every plant and in between the leaf sheaths and even into the growing point in order to extract every nymph. I use a magnifier to find nymphs and a toothpick to extract them.

I acquired the dreaded thrips at a show and it was only good fortune that I discovered where and what it was before it was too late. It took 3 years to get rid of every last one and in the meantime, that part of the collection had to be isolated. Control pests well before the show otherwise leave the monsters at home.

5) Transport
Our local shows are held in spring and in autumn. The weather could be sunny and hot or cold and rainy or even freezing. I share my experience with you.

Planning is critical to success. Suitable boxes, packing, helping hands and a vehicle are all part of successful transport.

When selecting plants which might be in flower at show time, consider how they can be packed and how those containers can fit in your vehicle. It is not unknown for someone to rent a van to transport an especially large or tall specimen.

Consider the effect of too much heat from the sun or car heater, the chance of sunburn, freezing because of proximity to an uninsulated wall or chill because of the air conditioning. If renting a vehicle, check for the location of heating/air conditioning vents. Use such areas for storing luggage, props and such non-plant items.

If you plan to stop along the way for a meal, consider what will happen to the plants left in the car over midday. Heat from the sun will quickly damage flowers and even kill plants.

Take no chances with a precious cargo that you have worked hard to acquire. Park in the shade. Cover plants in boxes with a lightweight cloth to mask the sun's rays. This Phalaenopsis suffered heat damage from being exposed to sun shining through the car window. picture

I use a picnic cooler to transport tiny pleurothallids in cool, humid comfort.

We cannot always have the ideal weather for transporting orchids to a show but cool cloudy weather is probably safest.

6) At the show

Have on hand: show schedule, paper towels, spray bottle and water, tweezers, scissors, razorblades and alcohol, waxed florist tape

Locate your assigned exhibit area then get assistance to transport the plants and containers to that area. Move carefully and deliberately especially with tall or ungainly specimens. Sudden and expressive hand movements have been known to knock off a flower or two! How many of us have had that happen?

Unpack carefully, check that any stakes are still secure. Groom again if needed, remove any travelling supports and table your blooming beauties. Ensure that the entries are registered and labeled then sit back and enjoy the show and the culmination of months of preparation.

May your plants win many ribbons at your future shows!

Prechat Handout

Preparing to Show Orchids

Marilyn H. S. Light
Copyright 2003

We all likely remember when we first saw orchids in a handsome display at a show. It was
possibly then that we became inspired to become orchid growers and to someday proudly show
what we had bloomed. We may not have realised it, but a lot of preparation goes into showing
orchids. In order to achieve the very best, an exhibitor must choose healthy stock, grow it well,
care for the developing flowers and transport it safely to the show. Lets get prepared to do as
good a job!

Exhibitors have a variety of goals in mind when they show an orchid. Some wish to proudly
show their very first orchid whose blooming event thankfully coincided with the local show date.
Maybe they will win a ribbon and maybe not but they will have succeeded in blooming what
they once only dreamed of. Rosettes, ribbons, trophies and maybe an award or two are a definite
lure for some exhibitors while others simply wish to assist their club by supplying additional
plants for a larger exhibit. In larger displays, flaws are likely not seen by the casual observer but
in smaller exhibits or when a plant is on the judging table, flaws are much more apparent. It
is therefore in the best interest of the exhibitor to groom plants before the show. Not only will
plants be at their best but a ribbon or two may be more likely forthcoming.

Preparing the plant

The process of showing orchids begins long before the show date. Protect show plants from
conditions that damage foliage and new growths. Most orchids keep their leaves for several
years or even longer. A spot of drought or too little shade can produce effects such as
accordion-pleated foliage in Miltonia or an unsightly brown papery patch on a Cattleya leaf. The
plant likely will recover from the damage but the telltale signs will persist and render the plant
unsuitable for display where the foliage will be easily seen. Control pests, water and fertilize
with care, avoid spraying with hard water or products that leave an unsightly residue. Above all,
grow the plants as well as possible for maximum bloom quality and production.

A few days before show time, select plants at their blooming prime. While grooming is a year
round task, verify that all debris including dead foliage, dried backbulbs, and fallen blooms have
been removed. Tweezers are useful tools when grooming tiny specimens. Examine the foliage,
especially the undersurface, for signs of scale and other pests. Gently wipe the uppersurface of
each leaf with a clean damp paper towel. Change towels between plants. Repeat if necessary at
the show to remove travel dust. Do your fellow exhibitors a favor by leaving infested plants at
home.

When foliage is unsightly because of physical damage, we can still make good use of the
blooms. Blloms can be entered in a cut flower or decorative class. In a large display, minor
problems may disappear amongst the mass of blooms. An alternative is to remove the
damaged portions from an otherwise large healthy specimen but this should be done only as a
last resort.

Training the inflorescence

Inflorescences are soft when immature but as they elongate, can become brittle and inflexible.
As tiny flower buds develop, they will adjust their position according to the direction of light
and the plant habit. Resupination (lip becoming lowermost) happens a few days before the
flower opens. The best time to stake an inflorescence is when it is young. This way, flower buds
and flowers will be carried to best advantage. Use a long enough stake to support what is
expected to develop. Inflorescences can be staked to be upright or arching. Phalaenopsis
and Odontoglossum are staked vertical over their entire length or partway which permits the
flower-bearing part to drape gracefully in a cascade of wonderful blooms. Use only new bamboo
or sterilized metal or plastic stakes. Be certain that a stake will not wobble during transport.
Gently train a developing inflorescence by securing it along its length as it elongates using
twists of waxed florist tape. Never attach the tie so tightly that the stalk becomes deformed.
During the entire training process until flowering, keep the plant in the same position relative to
the direction of light. A mark on the pot can help with realignment if the container has to be
moved. Stakes are sometimes removed for display purposes but if this is not the intention,
choose a stake style to complement rather than detract from the flowers.

Care of the flowers

Developing flower buds are very susceptible to physical damage such as bruising, sun or frost
burn, and insect predation and this can happen weeks before the show. A tiny scar on an equally
tiny bud may not be noticeable but the damaged part can become an unsightly blemish when the
bud expands to open. Protect developing buds from damage by paying close attention to culture.
Control insect pests especially thrips and aphids preferably before the buds form. Thrips nymphs
will feed just under the petal edges of an opening bud leaving silvery scars to mar an otherwise
beautiful flower. Botyritis fungus is a problem when nights are cool, humidity is high and there
is poor air circulation. Affected buds and flowers will develop unsightly speckles.

Bud drop is a maddening habit of some Dendrobium and Phalaenopsis plants. A sharp change in
temperature and humidity is suggested as the cause but you may not be able to stop bud drop
from happening. If you have plants that are particularly susceptible to bud drop, bear this in
mind before choosing them for the center of a display. Chances are that the changes experienced
on the way to the show or at the show will cause buds to change color and drop.

Pests and Diseases

Pests and diseases have no business at a show but that does not mean that they will not be
present. We all have a duty to ensure that our plants are not a source of problems for other
exhibitors. Greenhouse growers are encouraged to check especially yellow flowers and new
succulent growths for aphids before bringing the plants to the show. While a blast of water
or even soapy water will remove most, some nymphs may linger. Flower thrips, and a nasty
hermaphroditic thrips that affects Paphs and other orchids, Heliothrips haemorrhoidalis, can
spread to other plants at a show. Control pests before the show otherwise leave the monsters at
home.

Transport

Planning is critical to success. Suitable boxes, packing, helping hands and a vehicle are all part
of successful transport. When selecting plants which might be in flower at showtime, consider
how they can be packed and how those containers can fit in your vehicle. It is not unknown
for someone to rent a van to transport an especially large or tall specimen. Consider the effect of
too much heat from the sun or car heater, the chance of sunburn, freezing because of proximity
to an uninsulated wall or chill because of the air conditioning. If you stop along the way for a
meal, consider what will happen to the plants left in the car over midday. Heat from the sun will
quickly damage flowers and even kill plants. Take no chances with a precious cargo that you
have worked hard to acquire. Park in the shade. Cover plants in boxes with a lightweight cloth to
mask the sun's rays. I use a picnic cooler to transport tiny pleurothallids in cool, humid comfort.
To transport Catasetums with their all too vulnerable male flowers, try securing the staked
inflorescence by attaching cords to the stake and to either side of the box. Advise the driver to
avoid sharp turns or sudden stops, both of which can cause plants to shift, topple or otherwise be
damaged.

At the show

Have on hand: show schedule, paper towels, spray bottle and water, tweezers, scissors,
razorblade and alcohol, waxed florist tape.

Locate your assigned exhibit area then get assistance to transport the plants and containers to
that area. Move carefully and deliberately especially with tall or ungainly specimens. Sudden
and expressive hand movements have been known to knock off a flower or two! Unpack
carefully, check that any stakes are still secure. Groom again if needed, remove any travelling
supports and table your blooming beauties. Ensure that the entries are registered and labelled
then sit back and enjoy the show and the culmination of months of preparation. Good luck!