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Discussion Begins:
MarilyninOttawa
I have devised this session to be a series of questions and answers.
Please feel free to pose further questions but remember that
I may not have all the answers!
Mycorrhizae - What are they? Mycorrhizae or more correctly,
endomycorrhizae, are filamentous fungi that assist with the germination
and growth of orchid seeds and plants. The mycorrhizal fungi
that assist with germination can be very host-specific. The many
fungi that inhabit the roots of mature orchids can include some
which would not be expected to assist with germination.
How do the fungi enter the seed or roots? Orchid protocorms
and orchid roots produce tiny hair-like structures called rhizoids
or root hairs. Typically, a thread or hypha of the fungus enters
a root hair near its tip and moves along the hair toward the
protocorm or the root.
All orchid roots produce root hairs. These are more easily
seen with terrestrial orchids and on the roots of seedlings in
flask. As roots mature, and especially with epiphytes, the root
hairs are confined to the part of the root next to the substrate
and often only in the younger parts of the root. Here we see
root hairs of the terrestrial orchid, Epipactis helleborine.
If
you look closely, you can just make out a fungal hypha within
one of the hairs.
Here we see
the fungal thread within a root hair of terrestrial wetland
species, Pogonia ophioglossoides. The fungus may be Epulorhiza
sp.
The roots of this orchid ramify throughout the substrate composed
of sedge and other herb roots, mosses and decaying vegetation.
Although we cannot see the root hairs with the naked eye, close
examination would reveal an extensive
network of fungal links between the orchid and the substrate.
What function do mycorrhizal fungi serve? Protocorms are dependent
on the mycorrhizal fungus for early nutrition. Many terrestrial
orchids exist for years below ground and completely dependent
upon their fungal partner. Once the fungi enter protocorms or
roots, they form coils (pelotons) in certain cells, such
as the cortex cells of the root.
At first the coils are easy to distinguish microscopically
but as the orchid begins to digest the fungus, the peloton becomes
an amorphous blob. The peloton absorbed by the host orchid as
food. More and more pelotons form, are absorbed, and the orchid
grows.
Here we can see some caramel brown areas within a section
of orchid root. These are pelotons in the process of digestion.
If roots are normally cream to white, we can readily identify
areas of root with pelotons as they will appear light brown.
picture
Once orchids become photosynthetic and have sufficient reserves
to support their life, the fungi may become less important but
much investigation is still needed to clarify this.
We know that orchids grow in some harsh situations. On the
Pacific slopes of Mexico, there are some particularly harsh environments
where orchids grow epiphytically without rain for up to six months
of the year. Of course, there are fogs which provide moisture
but it is dry.
N_Calif_Kathy
Pelotons are only in terrestrial orchids once they've grown past
the protocorm stage? Terrestrials like those of the orchis subgroup?
Or also ones like Goodyeara? Or paphs?
MarilyninOttawa
Good question, Kathy. All orchid roots infected with mycorrhizal
fungi develop pelotons. This is true for all orchids including
epiphytes and terrestrials. It is also true for all orchid protocorms
germinating under natural conditions.
N_Calif_Kathy
Is this why some people say that orchids are saprophytic? Because
they digest pelotons?
MarilyninOttawa
There are several terms used to describe the orchid-fungus relationship.
Saprophyte is generally used to describe plants dependent upon
fungi for their continued existence. Parasites would be orchids,
even green plants, which exploited another organism for food.
I believe that most orchids are mutualists. There is benefit
for both partners although the pendulum may swing different directions
during the relationship.
In flask, seeds of one such orchid, Encyclia kienastii (Domingoa
kienastii), germinate within 24 hours and begin a rapid development
of a large storage root seen in the picture. While we do not
know for certain what happens in nature, it is quite possible
that seedlings germinating in the wild take rapid advantage of
moisture, growing quickly to secure a niche in a bark crevice.
If what we see in flask is any reflection of nature, seedlings
grow six months then rest six months. It is only a year after
germination that a small shoot begins to elongate and leaves
form. picture
Do non-green orchids have fungal partners? There is evidence
that the mature Coral Root (Corallorhiza trifida) receives nutrients
via its mycorrhizal associates. Mature photosynthetic plants
may benefit from mycorrhizae including access to mineral nutrients,
water and protection from root pathogens.
An interesting investigation into the algae, fungi and bacteria
associated with the roots of epiphytes has been reported by Tsavkelova
et al (2003). They found that when the aerial roots of Acampe
papillosa, Dendrobium moschatum, Phalaenopsis amabilis and Dendrobium
phalaenopsis were maintained under conditions of 90% relative
humidity at 25-28C in bright light, the aerial roots became covered
in a dark green mass of micro-organisms up to several millimeters
thick. Some of the organisms are known to fix nitrogen which
is especially interesting.
N_Calif_Kathy
People who grow their orchids in clear pots note that the roots
will turn green. Most folks agree that algae grow on roots in
these pots and it is not detrimental. However Roy Tokunaga thinks
that the roots may become photosynthetic. What do you think?
Algal overgrowth? Or the root responding to the presence of light
and becoming photosynthetic?
MarilyninOttawa
There are the green algae and the blue green algae, the latter
group being the ones most often considered to fix nitrogen. I
expect that both kinds could exist in a transparent pot. Epiphytic
orchid roots are likely photosynthetic although to what degree
their photosynthetic production aids the plant is unclear. In
leafless orchids, the benefit is clear but in larger leafy plants,
the leaves may be the more important producer.
Greg_in_MI
We try to preserve the Mycorrhizae that occurs in the pots of
pine raised as bonsai. They seem to do much better. In fact some
add commercial Mycorrhizae solutions to try to build the colony.
John_in_Arcadia_CA
Yet there are some that are dangerous to trees. We lost our big
camphor tree to oak root fungus!
MarilyninOttawa
Pines would have ectomycorrhizal associates. These fungi live
on the outside of the roots and yes, they are important to the
well being of the tree. There are products available now that
can be used to infect tree and other plant roots with such fungi.
There is not a product available for orchids, however. John,
there are many different fungi and some are pathogens like the
Phytophthora fungus you are referring to. This is the same genus
of fungus (not the same species) that causes Black Rot of Cattleya,
and the Potato Blight.
John_in_Arcadia_CA
It also has killed about 5 of our 30 year old camillias (I think
that was the cause anyway!)
Greg_in_MI
Has anyone produced treatments that are useful to orchids?
John_in_Arcadia_CA
I think that would be an interesting experiment.
pecteilis_in_KY
I remember reading a paper, German, about growing orchid seed
in an open flat of Oat meal? innoculateds with orchid fungi.
MarilyninOttawa
The Oats Medium, an agar-based, sterilized medium, has been used
together with the appropriate mycorrhizal isolate, to support
the symbiotic germination of orchid seeds.
MarilyninOttawa
What function does the orchid serve the mycorrhizal fungus? This
is good question for which we have yet to have a good answer.
Some say the orchid parasitizes the fungus but many orchid seedlings
are parasitized by the fungus before they reach maturity. Why?
The best guess is that the relationship is one of delicate balance
that can easily be disturbed.
N_Calif_Kathy
As an example of evolution you'd have to wonder which came first?
The orchids capturing the fungus for its purposes? Or the orchid
adapting to the presence of fungus in the environment?
MarilyninOttawa
The jury is still out on that one although one must expect that
orchid seeds have lost capabilities over time and become more
dependent on a fungal partner for germination and early growth.
MarilyninOttawa
Do artificially propagated orchid roots ever become infected
with mycorrhizal fungi? If we examine the roots of epiphytic
orchids that have been growing in potting medium for several
months, we can often find fungal pelotons in the root tissue.
Such evidence demonstrates that secondary infections do occur
but what benefit these relationships may have is as yet unclear.
pecteilis_in_KY
Marilyn the set back that most orchids experience if drenched
with an anti fungal product seems to suggest that the fungus
is beneficial, even in mature plants.
N_Calif_Kathy
Good point
MarilyninOttawa
There have been some studies where the effect of fungicide was
tested. I do not have those at hand but suggest that only particular
fungicides could be damaging. The mycorrhizal fungi are basidiomycetes
although later infestations could be with ascomycetes. Fungicides
disrupt the lives of particular fungi. Some products such as
those for potato scab will affect basidiomycetes. Most fungicides
will affect ascomycetes but again there is some specificity.
Generally speaking, you could expect an effect.
pecteilis_in_KY
Marilyn, one of your pics showed a hypha in the root hair of
a mature plant? If it has not function, what is it doing there?
The orchid has defenses against MOST fungi.
MarilyninOttawa
A good question but we really do not yet know the answer. My
assumption is that there are mutual benefits to those fungi which
invade orchid roots. In some orchids, this must happen every
year since the roots are annual. Such is the case with Catasetum,
with Platanthera, and Ophrys.
MarilyninOttawa
What are the functions of roots? Roots have a central conductive
core where water, minerals and nutrients can flow. This core
is surrounded by a thick layer of cortex cells. This is where
pelotons form and are digested. On the outer surface, there is
an epidermis or covering layer of cells. As the aerial roots
of epiphytic orchids develop, an external layer of specialized
dead cells forms. This is the velamen, a usually silvery reflective
coating seen on many orchid roots.
The velamen protects the internal cells from dessication and
reflects light which possibly keeps roots cooler. Gases can move
through the velamen. In large thick aerial roots, we can usually
see pores in the form of elliptical slits. It is sometimes easier
to see them if we first wet the root surface. These pores mechanically
shrink and expand as the roots are alternately wetted and dried.
Orchid
roots do more than anchor a plant to a tree or keep it snug within
a pot.
Roots are the primary structures used by a plant to absorb
water and mineral nutrients. In leafless orchids, roots serve
the dual function of anchor and photosynthetic organ. Roots are
used as storage organs especially in monopodial orchids such
as Phalaenopsis and Vanda, and also in deciduous orchids such
as Cypripedium. Roots store starch and water.
In terrestrial orchids such as Cypripedium, roots are the
primary storage organ beside the rhizome. Often, the balance
of nutrient store to photosynthetic capacity is tenuous especially
in shaded situations. If some roots are lost during wild collection,
a plant may not have sufficient reserves to survive transplanting.
Furthermore, it may lose its vital mycorrhizal network since
the new environment may no longer be suitable for fungal life
outside the plant. We can only speculate that this is case but
certainly, wild collected plants are less likely to survive than
artificially propagated, seed-raised stock. picture
When orchids are raised in flask, they are provided all the
nutrients necessary to grow. In Cypripedium, seedlings properly
raised have strong, starch-packed roots. picture
It is little wonder that strong seedlings make the transition
to the ex-flask existence. picture
As I have mentioned many times before, plants with sturdy root
systems are to be preferred over those with poor roots. The seedlings
you see have been removed from replate flask, washed and are
being conditioned before being planted into pots or beds of growth
medium. They are no longer sterile.
What is the difference culture-wise between fine-rooted and
thick-rooted orchids? Orchids with fine roots such as many of
the Oncidiums and Tolumnias require finer more porous potting
mix or are perhaps best mounted to permit the fine roots to ramble
over the bark. picture
Plants with thick roots require special care. Here we see
a Phalaenopsis with roots at different stages including a shriveled
dead root (which can be removed) and a new growing root with
a healthy green growing point. picture
Sometimes it may seem that a plant has more than enough roots
but root pruning may seriously set back a plant. We are not generally
attempting to 'bonsai' an orchid. Our goal is to get blooms and
bloom production is dependent on an adequate nutrient store to
support the blooms. picture
How does one deal with orchids exhibiting seasonal root growth?
Some orchids grow year round, others seasonally. Where growth
is more or less continuous as in Phalaenopsis, re-potting can
be safely done year round. With orchids whose growth is seasonal,
care must be taken to repot when roots are just starting to grow
otherwise we risk damaging or interfering with root development.
Catasetum, Pleione, certain Dendrobiums and Cattleyas produce
roots once a year. These should be repotted when root initials
become visible or shortly before.
Why should we conserve roots when repotting an orchid? Roots
are important organs of absorption and absorption. Loss of some
of the absorptive surface area might critically affect the ability
of the orchid to recover after potting. Loss of stored nutrient
can also be deleterious. Many orchids use the roots to store
reserves. Removal of many roots reduces the food and water store
of a plant. Without this storage capacity, a plant may need perfect
growing conditions and much time to be able to recover.
Consider how you will deal with orchid roots when the time
comes for repotting. Roots that have ramified through potting
medium such as tree fern or have become firmly attached to a
pot may be lost. picture
N_Calif_Kathy
Marilyn, what about the opposite. Many people wonder about roots
in the wild collected plant and it survival in 'captivity'. What
about the opposite? Taking a flasked plant and reintroducing
it to the wild? Since these are already developed in captivity
does one still have to worry about the proper mycorhizea in the
wild?
MarilyninOttawa
Very good question, Kathy. A flasked plant might persist in the
wild but then it might not. We really do not have enough evidence
on re-introductions to make a sweeping statement. Apart from
the hazards of re-collection (it happens) or loss to snails,
etc (this also happens a lot!), I expect that orchid roots will
become colonized with free-roaming fungi. Some species may be
very dependent upon having the correct associate for life and
others may not. We just do not know.
MarilyninOttawa Some ways that we can
employ to limit root loss when re-potting is the potting-on technique
where the mounted plant is attached to the new mount and allowed
to grow onto it. picture
This was my last slide so now we can have more questions. Ask
away!
art,simpsonville_sc
Do we try to cram as many roots into pot or do we put plants
in huge pots to guarantee that all the roots fit?
jeanne23_from_oz
Our 'experts" always maintain that the plant should be repotted
in a pot that will last only 2 years because the roots have to
reach the sides of the pot to stabilize themselves before real
growth commences as the movement of the roots in the pot damages
them and they go backwards
MarilyninOttawa
I feel that a lot depends on the orchid, its growth pattern,
the chosen medium, etc. Some of mine must be repotted annually.
Growth is that quick. You are quite right about roots moving
(wobbling) in a pot. Make certain that repotted orchids are well
anchored.
A lot depends on what kind of orchid. With a Phal, some roots
can remain outside the pot. With a Cattleya, you may have to
select a broader pot or basket. I usually choose a basket when
dealing with a particularly rambling sort.
art,simpsonville_sc
So you're saying in the case of catts I need to try to select
a pot large enough to cram all the roots back in instead of pruning
them back and going into a smaller pot
pecteilis_in_KY
If you use the permanent mediums, lava rock, etc. You don't have
to remove it, just the back part, so you don't lose all those
roots.
MarilyninOttawa
If you must cram all the roots into a pot then I feel that the
chosen pot is too small. There should be room for some medium
also. Why not divide the plant? This way you will be able to
have smaller pots.
N_Calif_Kathy
I've been wondering what it would take to re-introduce Cyp californicum
to the regional parks around here. (other than a permit)
jim4eq
I know that in Florida, efforts to re-introduce have been unsuccessful.
One group here has the Smithsonian helping look for the proper
symbionts.
N_Calif_Kathy
Interesting! So orchids still need symbionts even past the seedling
stage...
jim4eq
yeah, and is often a different myco at adulthood compared to
seedling symbiont
MarilyninOttawa
Before I forget: Kathy, you should identify a legitimate source
of artificially propagated C. californicum. Be certain that these
seedlings can be imported into your state. Seedlings with the
heaviest root systems are the best choice. You would probably
want to 'garden' seedlings for a year or two before reintroduction.
Seedlings will have to be caged for best results. Otherwise they
become some rabbit's supper. Barring those steps, it is worth
a go. Someone may already be trying this however and you will
have to inquire locally to be certain that seedlings being re-introduced
come from the same population. Since I do not work with this
species, I am somewhat limited in terms of a more detailed response.
Gaile
I have also been told that -at least with cattleya- cutting roots
back is ok, because they will branch at the cut and actually
provide more root surface. This assumes, of course, that the
repotting is being done at the proper time. True?
N_Calif_Kathy
I'll be interested to see what Marilyn says. I've been told that
too, however in my hands the cut roots just die, and the plant
has to make more. I think the cuts are just sites for infection.
I could be wrong. That's why I wonder what Marilyn will say.
al_@_michigan
I was wondering about the relationship of root growth to the
leaf size and growth patterns. over the growing season, can root
growth be approximated by leave growth or does one precede the
other.
pecteilis_in_KY
No; each species is different. Some catts make roots THEN break
a bud. Others mature a growth before they root it.
MarilyninOttawa
Ok, there was a question about root pruning and something about
leaf growth. Some, indeed many orchid roots will branch after
being cut or broken. Some orchids such as C. dowiana will produce
roots once a year. When you prune, you remove root and its starch
store. The plant must produce new root and re-fill that tissue
with starch. It is analagous to removing honey-filled comb from
a hive. You can do it but if the bees are to survive winter,
they must produce more comb and more honey as reserve.
Jade
Sounds like it would be best to just pot up in that case.
jeanne23_from_oz
Why would you prune good roots off ?
Gaile
Actually, the comment was made to me by someone who was showing
me how to divide and pot a cattleya (I am very new). I think
the information was given as much to reassure me I wouldn't kill
the darn thing by handling it a bit less delicately.
So while the roots will indeed branch, the bad news is it could
delay leaf growth or blooms until the plant has restocked the
larder?
MarilyninOttawa
A lot depends on the plant, the time of year, growing conditions,
and the quantity of root removed. A few centimeters of root from
a huge Vanda is not as consequential as half the roots of a slower
growing Phal.
Randy,_MI
Marilyn, what advice could you give about moving wild orchids
from a `construction zone' to a safe area? We have a permit,
and are going in relatively blind and dumb. We have set a criteria
of trying to move them to an area where that species already
grows--any thoughts?
MarilyninOttawa
Which species?
Randy,_MI
Will probably be mostly Cyp's, although it depends on which species
is found. Our plan was to try to move anything found.
MarilyninOttawa
Generally speaking, you would want to select you transplantation
site first then prepare the space for the transplant. Try to
remove large areas of ground around the plants. Wait until after
heavy rain if you can. Orchid roots are usually in the upper
layers. Try to match the site habitat-wise including slope, drainage,
companion plants. As I indicated before, dig the strips where
you intend to transplant and dig a similar strip from where you
intend to rescue. Same depth. This will be especially important
for the Pink Lady's-slippers since their roots spread quite a
lot. Finally, follow the transplant site for at least two years.
Mark the plants discretely or map them so that you can monitor
their progress. Your observations will assist others attempting
to do the same. Keep notes and communicate your results. Good
luck.
Greg_in_MI
I wonder about leafless orchids (like the FL ghost) is that totally
a Mycorrhizal relationship? They certainly do get green...
jim4eq
no, the myco is in there and helps, but photosynthesis is done
by the roots. Nice big fat green healthy roots, LOL
MarilyninOttawa
Leafless orchids are not without chloroplasts. They can and do
photosynthesize. They likely have mycorrhizal associates also.
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