You have been wanting to take the plunge, to try your hand at making your very own hybrid orchid, but wonder just how to go about it. This topic is divided into three parts. Part I - The Easy Stuff, which was presented in November 2005, deals with flower structure, pollen removal, storage, and pollination techniques. Part II - The Challenging Stuff, which was presented in January 2006, deals with the consequences of doing it including choice of seed and pollen parents using Paphiopedilum as an example. Part III - I have a million babies! addresses the reality of the first time experience including what to do with millions of seeds. Just how does one manage a million babies, thousands of protocorms, and hundreds of compots. How can we realize success from the adventure?

You have assisted an orchid with reproduction. A capsule has formed and is ready to harvest-now what? Remember that orchids produce lots of seeds. Masdevallia tovarensis releases some 3000 seeds. An Oncidium produces tens of thousands of seeds per capsule. A Cattleya, Catasetum, Lycaste or similar large fruited type can produce millions of seeds per fruit. Do you really want to sow them all then grow millions of seedlings to maturity? Not all seeds can germinate even if they contain embryos so we have to sow more than a few to be certain to get some seedlings. Examining seeds with a microscope before flasking will help with decisions as to how many seeds to sow. If there is a lot of chaff (empty testas) then more seed must to sown to compensate for this. Here we see two Lycaste seeds containing embryos. Getting seeds is easy, sowing them can be a challenge but is not unsurmountable. Seeds usually germinate, protocorms form. Here are protocorms of Rossioglossum grande ready for replating. Do not wait much longer! Do not wait until rhizoids form and become tangled as we see happening here with Pleione protocorms.

Replating is done once or twice to accommodate the growing seedlings as we see here with Pleione. Replating is required whenever seedlings become crowded but are still too small to survive outside a flask. These Cattleya seedlings also appear to not like their flask medium. Roots are small and not growing within the medium. Replating can be a lot of work.

Deflasking seedlings into the real world of compots is more work. Here are seedlings of Epidendrum ilense which could soon ready for planting into separate pots. Dendrobium compot. These seedlings of Angraecum calceolus grew so quickly that they outgrew their tray in less than a year. Potting them all individually was quite a chore. Eventually every surviving seedling will have its own pot. Soon there will be ribbons, an award or two, maybe even an Award of Quality... But wait a minute. Just how many seedlings do you plan to raise to achieve those lofty expectations? Flasking is work. Replating is more work. Potting is even more work and now those seedlings are growing and taking more space. Are you ready for all that work? Do you have enough space? What will you do with a million babies?

If you have selected proven parents, there is a good chance that some progeny will be as good or maybe even better than there parents. If you have indulged in a speculative cross, the outcome will be determined by many factors. You may be fortunate and luck into a winning combination but chances are that the progeny will be average. Some may inherit the worst characteristics of both parents. Some may be slow growers, shy bloomers, or produce tiny flowers atop massive plants.

Obviously you do not want to raise masses of plants for many years only to find that they produce poor flowers. Likewise, you do not want to grow only one, find it to be a winner then regret not raising all the others. What is the best strategy?

OPTION 1 - Use proven parents If you have selected proven parents, there is a good chance that some progeny will be as good or maybe even better than there parents. How many seeds sown will depend on the capsule size, the growth rate, expected age and size at flowering. Masdevallia capsules contain several thousand seeds whereas those of Cattleya contain millions. Sow multiple flasks so as to avoid any chance of contamination ruining the one and only flask. Select the most robust protocorms for replating as these will likely grow more quickly. Replate about 100 protocorms, 20-25 per flask. Plant out into about 10 compots of 10 seedlings apiece. Plan to grow at least 2 compots to flowering size. Distribute the other compots to interested growers where you can get feedback as to how the cross turned out.

Ultimately, having a measure of the progeny quality is essential if you ever wish to attempt a remake or pursue this line of breeding further. I remade a proven cross Onc. Vera Arthurs (ghiesbreghtianum x graminifolium). I used different parents but I knew what to expect. Compact, floriferous plants blooming mostly in autumn/winter.

What I didn't know was the influence of different parents. I sowed most of the seed, replated only the most vigorous seedlings and raised about a dozen plants to flowering size. One of these has proven to be superior in flower size with a longer spike also but it took 5 years to flowers them all. picture

OPTION 2 - Speculative cross If you have indulged in a speculative cross, the outcome will be uncertain. Chances are that the progeny will be average but some may inherit the worst characteristics of both parents. Some may be slow growers, shy bloomers, or produce awful flowers. A few may be very good. How many seeds sown will depend upon the proportion of germinable seeds. Often, and especially with intergeneric hybrids, very few seeds can germinate so the entire capsule contents need to be sown to ensure having some protocorms. Sow multiple flasks. You might also wish to use several media. Offspring may be more fussy than their parents.

You can always discard what you do not need but may regret not sowing more when very few seedlings result. Select the most robust protocorms for replating as these will likely grow more quickly. Replate about 100 protocorms, 20-25 per flask. Plant out into about 10 compots of 10 seedlings apiece. Plan to grow at least 2 compots to flowering size.

Distribute the other compots to interested growers where you can get feedback as to how the cross turned out. This especially useful when the plants are large and take more than a few years to reach flowering size. Ultimately, having a measure of the progeny quality is essential if you ever wish to attempt a remake or pursue this line of breeding further.

I attempted a cross with Oncidium Vera Arthurs, crossing it with Onc. ornithorhynchum. I hoped to get red flowers and did not even think of the possibility of fragrance. I knew that Onc. Vera Arthurs was self infertile and that the pollen was incapable of making hybrids but I could use the plants as seed parents. I sowed all the seeds but germination was spotty: some seedlings were weak growers. I replated about 100 seedlings and selected 25 seedlings for pots.

The first to bloom had bordeaux red flowers!!! and was fragrant. I named the cross Onc. Remembering Carmen. All others bloomed with light to dark pink patterned flowers. One has a beautiful long lasting bloom reminiscent of equitant flowers. picture

I have now remade the cross using a superior Onc. ornithorhynchum on my best large-flowered remake of Onc. Vera Arthurs. If all goes well, I will sow all the seed, replate the strongest seedlings but plan to grow at least 50 seedlings to flowering size. Here we see Onc. Vera Arthurs and Onc. Remembering Carmen as a group. picture

That is the end of my presentation. Questions?

Kathy had a question about flasking medium. What should we do if the seedlings do not like the medium? I always use several different media when flasking unless it is a remake where I know what worked best first. The presence or absence of charcoal can make a difference. Water quality (use deionized), pH (adjust as directed), addition of banana, etc may or may not be good.

Mauro_Brazil
All right concerning to the medium, but what about the medium pH?

MarilyninOttawa
Certainly pH can make a difference but 5.8 to 6.0 should work. More important are certain components like charcoal or particular sources of nitrogen. I have learned by experiment and I imagine that an experienced flasker has also. You find some formulations are more reliable than others.
I have just flasked Phragmipedium for the first time. I used my standard Phytamax that works for a range of orchids. I used it also diluted 1/2 strength with additional sugar and agar to retain the original concentration of these components, and with pH re-adjusted to the recommended level. This medium contains charcoal. I used a Cypripedium medium that does not contain charcoal but is the same pH. I have found that the Phragimpedium seeds germinated first on medium without charcoal. These protocorms are now green and developing a first leaf. Protocorms are now developing on the charcoal medium but are not green. Guess which medium I will use in future?

Mauro_Brazil
I've been told that banana and coconut endosperm are incompatible. Do you have any experience with them?

MarilyninOttawa
I have used coconut water (liquid endosperm) and mashed banana but never together. Banana works well added to Phytamax with charcoal for Psycopsis. Coconut does not. Coconut works well for Masdevallia and Epidendrum. Banana not so well.

Steve_in_the_Adirondacks
I have a question about selecting the largest protocorms. Obviously, the larger ones would be expected to grow faster but... Have you ever heard of a case where the smaller ones actually produced better plants? I'm wondering if the smaller ones ever grow up to be more compact plants? Maybe on a cross that produces overly tall plants, some of the small protocorms might be worth a try?

Mauro_Brazil
I hear those stories every time around here, Steve.

MarilyninOttawa
It is true that with some plants, smaller seedlings may produce better colors but not always. Believe me, I used to save them all. The weaker ones may ultimately have better flowers but they are often weak growers. Which do you want?
It is tempting to grow a selection and I have tried - with Masdevallia (the tiny stayed tiny and never bloomed). You can afford to indulge yourself with more small plants (which is why I raise Masdevallias).

Mauro_Brazil
Marilyn, what is your opinion: is it better sowing green pods or crackled ones? Sterilization process may harm, and surely will, the tiny seeds thus reducing germination?

MarilyninOttawa
I began flasking with reed stem Epidendrum. Their green embros cannot take surface sterilization or at least not from me. I began using green pod with them. I prefer green pod as it removes one step and when you have many capsules to test, anything helps. Seeds can be surprisingly resilient to treatment with 1:10 bleach solution. Even Masdevallia seeds, where the testa hardly covers the embryo, survive and thrive. I feel that it really useful with speculative crosses, to green pod. This way you do not lose the few precious embryos buried in a mass of chaff. Some of my epis and epicatts have few embryos but those that grew had really good blooms.

Mauro_Brazil
Marilyn have you ever tested those bizarre crosses to see the percentage of good seeds, things like Isabelia x Cattleya, or so?

MarilyninOttawa
I try a lot of things Mauro. If you cannot find the answer in a book, you do the experiment. I have crossed Bifrenaria with Promenaea, Promenaea with Lycaste, and these are growing well but have not yet bloomed.

Ken_in_Traverse_City_MI
Are there any genus that are easier/more successful to hybridize than others? Say a first-timer wants to try it, and wants to try one that will take.

John in Arcadia CA
I have had the best luck with paphiopedilum crosses. I think that I have made about 75 of them

MarilyninOttawa
I think that reedstem epis are easy. Capsules take about 90 days. Seeds are big and germinate on almost any medium. I even blew some around the greenhouse and had babies popping up everywhere! These seeds must be taken from an entire fruit. Seeds do not survive bleach treatment.

Jade_in_GR
Marilyn, you make it sound so easy. Do you have a hood at your home for doing the flasking???

N_Calif_Kathy
Marilyn how do you store pollen? Most folks I know refrigerate it, in plain paper then put into a tight jar.

MarilyninOttawa
How do I store pollen and do I use a hood to flask. I typically pollinate with fresh pollen but have plenty in a fold of paper in the fridge. I have used a hood but the Angraecum seedlings shown earlier resulted from flasking down at a society meeting. No hood!

Prechat Handout

Introduction
You have been wanting to take the plunge, to try your hand at making your very own hybrid orchid but wonder just how to go about it.

This topic is divided into three parts. Part I - The Easy Stuff, deals with flower structure, pollen removal, storage, and pollination techniques. Part II - The Challenging Stuff, deals with the consequences of doing it including choice of seed and pollen parents using Paphiopedilum as an example. Part III - I have a million babies! addresses the reality of the first time experience including what to do with millions of seeds. Just how does one manage a million babies, thousands of protocorms, and hundreds of compots. How can we realize success from the adventure?

You have assisted an orchid with reproduction. A capsule has formed and is ready to harvest-now what? Getting seeds is easy, sowing them can be a challenge but is not unsurmountable. Seeds germinate, protocorms form, replating is done once or twice to accommodate the growing seedlings and then it is out into the real world of compots and later, a pot for each plant. Soon there will be ribbons, an award or two, maybe even an Award of Quality... But wait a minute. Just how many seedlings do you plan to raise to achieve those lofty expectations?

If you have selected proven parents, there is a good chance that some progeny will be as good or maybe even better than there parents. If you have indulged in a speculative cross, the outcome will be determined by many factors. You may be fortunate and luck into a winning combination but chances are that the progeny will be average. Some may inherit the worst characteristics of both parents. Some may be slow growers, shy bloomers, or produce tiny flowers atop massive plants. Obviously you do not want to raise masses of plants for many years only to find that they produce poor flowers. Likewise, you do not want to grow only one, find it to be a winner then regret not raising all the others. What is the best strategy?

OPTION 1 - Use proven parents
If you have selected proven parents, there is a good chance that some progeny will be as good or maybe even better than there parents.

How many seeds sown will depend on the capsule size, the growth rate, expected age and size at flowering. Masdevallia capsules contain several thousand seeds whereas those of Cattleya contain millions. Sow multiple flasks so as to avoid any chance of contamination ruining the one and only flask. Select the most robust protocorms for replating as these will likely grow more quickly. Replate about 100 protocorms, 20-25 per flask. Plant out into about 10 compots of 10 seedlings apiece. Plan to grow at least 2 compots to flowering size. Distribute the other compots to interested growers where you can get feedback as to how the cross turned out. Ultimately, having a measure of the progeny quality is essential if you ever wish to attempt a remake or pursue this line of breeding further.

OPTION 2 - Speculative cross
If you have indulged in a speculative cross, the outcome will be uncertain. Chances are that the progeny will be average but some may inherit the worst characteristics of both parents. Some may be slow growers, shy bloomers, or produce awful flowers. A few may be very good.

How many seeds sown will depend upon the proportion of germinable seeds. Often, and especially with intergeneric hybrids, very few seeds can germinate so many or even the entire capsule contents need to be sown to ensure having some protocorms. Sow multiple flasks. You can always discard what you do not need but may regret not sowing more when very few seedlings result. Select the most robust protocorms for replating as these will likely grow more quickly. Replate about 100 protocorms, 20-25 per flask. Plant out into about 10 compots of 10 seedlings apiece. Plan to grow at least 2 compots to flowering size. Distribute the other compots to interested growers where you can get feedback as to how the cross turned out. This especially useful when the plants are large and take more than a few years to reach flowering size. Ultimately, having a measure of the progeny quality is essential if you ever wish to attempt a remake or pursue this line of breeding further.