Ladies and gentlemen, it is indeed an honor
and pleasure to address such a distinguished group of orchid
growers and enthusiasts.
I hope the few words I have to offer will
be of some help to those interested in control of flowering and
growing of Cattleyas. I don't propose to be an expert on this
subject, but feel the work I have done with lights in speeding
up growth and flowering control will lead to a better understanding
of the requirements of this genus.
Most of my work in controlling flowering in
Cattleyas has been done with Cattleya labiata and its
hybrids. This species lends itself well to control with artificial
light, due to its normally flowering on a shortening day.
Lights, added to this shortening day to the
extent of 16 hours, will withhold flowering until lights are
removed and the day is again shortened.
The more Cattleya labiata in a hybrid
and the closer to the last crossing, the more control is obtained.
I might add, I can only give my own experiences
and have found that Cattleya labiata can be controlled
by a very low amount of light. A 15-watt light spaced every 20
square feet has withheld flowering for me with success. But I
have also found that by increasing the wattage to 100-150 watts,
with lights spaced a 6 foot intervals over each bench, it will
also stimulate growth to the extent that flowering can be maintained
every 6 months instead of the normal 12-month period.
In my area (Santa Cruz, California), by giving
added artificial lights, making the day length 14 to 16 hours
on about June 5th and removing them October 10th or about 125
days later, with a growing temperature af 65° nights, 80°
days, flowers are ready to cut December 15, or 65 days after
discontinuing the lights. These flowers are then cut, the plants
again put under artificial lights, 16 hours, 150 watts, for 3
1/2 months to April 1st. Lights are then removed and plants are
shaded with black cloth for 60 days, a temperature of 65°
nights, 80-85° days, allowing the plants only 8 hours of
daylight, until flowers are open and again ready to be cut. The
cycle is then complete. It is important to mention that time
of flowering from bud initiation can also be altered by temperature
manipulation.
|
|
55° - 70° |
60°-78° |
70°-85° |
|
3/4" bud |
67 days |
50 days |
36 days |
|
1-2" bud |
53 days |
38 days |
28 days |
|
2-3" bud |
42 days |
24 days |
18 days |
|
3-4" bud |
30 days |
20 days |
12-14 days |
This, I'm sure, points out the importance
of temperature in controlling flowering and growing. To prove
my point on the stimulating effect of artificial light on Cattleyas,
I put light on some plants of Cattleya mossiae.
This species normally flowers from May to
July in my area. In order to flower these plants earlier, I have
found the following effective. I grow these plants at a normal
temperature of 65° nights, 80° days, from time of flowering
until new growth is made up, about September 1st. At this time,
I drop the temperature to set buds - to 55°F - 70°F or
75°F - until buds show in sheath about December 1, then the
temperature is increased to normal 65° - 80°, lights
are added about January 15th when buds are about 1/4-inch in
length in sheath, with 16 hours of daylight. Flowers can be cut
by March 10th (about 25 days from time buds are 1/4-inch in length).
Plants with buds 1/4-inch in length in January
15 without lights were cut May 1st (56 days later), when grown
at a normal temperature of 65°F - 80°F. Here again time
of flower opening can be altered again by manipulating the growing
temperature.
So, I find again by adding artificial lights
flowering can be speeded up in this Cattleya from 56 to 25 days.
I believe it is well worth the extra money spent on lights.
A few points I feel necessary to get the best
results in lights are:
1.) Give as much daylight as possible during
any dull weather - grow plants hard.
2.) Plants should be fed to speed up growth
with lights.
3.) Don't try to control Cattleya hybrids
that have backgrounds of questionable periods of flowering. Hybridists
are breeding plants specifically for control of flowering. Use
them.
4.) For the amateur, remember if you try to
control the flowering of your Cattleyas, close them off from
other plants in the house or you may find that your other plants
may not bloom. It has happened that in the growing of Cattleyas
in the home, labiata and its hybrids won't flower if you
are a late reader.
I hope some of you will gain something from
these notes I've made, and I feel if we go home after this Conference
with only one idea, to improve this idea will be well worth the
time spent listening to any of the speaker's experiences.