International Orchid Workshop
Haapsalu, Estonia,
June 27-July 2, 2004
Moderator: Marilyn Light
July 14, 2004

Copyright 2004

MarilyninOttawa
Those of us who work with orchid populations get together every few years to present our findings and to discuss future projects. During these meetings, we learn about the local customs, experience cultural activities, and also see the local flora and fauna. The experiences are as varied as they are rich and the people we meet as interesting as the many orchids we see growing locally. What is particularly worthwhile is the mixing of students and experienced observers. Previously, workshops have been held in the Netherlands and in the Czech Republic. The 2004 event, hosted by the Institute of Zoology and Botany, Estonian Agricultural University and the Estonian Orchid Protection Club, was held in Estonia, a new member of the European Union which is located along the southern coast of the Baltic Sea.

Some facts about Estonia and conservation. Estonia is a small country located between 57 and 59 degrees North latitude which provides long summer days and long winter nights. Despite its northerly latitude, Estonia's location near the Baltic Sea and its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, moderate the winter temperatures (-5C). Winters are not particularly snowy either with an estimated 10 cm snow cover forecast from late December through early March. About 50% of Estonia is forested with both deciduous and coniferous trees. Scot's Pine (Pinus sylvestris) is the most common tree. About 10% of Estonia is a nature reserve, primarily along the coast and on the several large islands in the Baltic Sea. About 40% of the forest is open to the public. Plank walkways have been established across bogs (mires).

Much of Estonia was flooded during and after the last Ice Age and is still rising at an annual rate of 2.5 mm. Much of this formerly flooded area is flat with shallow soil over limestone bedrock. Over 1/5 of the country is covered by wetlands. Glacier erractics, huge boulders carried from distant lands during the last Ice Age, are especially protected on the island of Hiiumaa where many are linked to legend and folklore. We saw 'the farm labourer's breadboard' Teomeeste leivalaud, at the roadside. Estonian flora has been influenced by human activity. Woodland meadows have evolved after centuries of mowing and grazing between scattered deciduous trees. The Estonian coastline forms an important part of the route chosen by migrating birds.

The meeting was held in Haapsalu in a very comfortable hotel, Hotel Promenaadi, located on a narrow peninsula. The sea was calm - there is virtually no tide - and because of the isolated location, it was very quiet. Only the black-headed gulls and other birds broke the silence. To the right of the dining area was a picturesque view of the old town capped with church towers. Investigators from 17 countries including many European nations as well as Australia, Canada, Reunion (France), the USA and Russia shared studies on germination, pollination biology and evolution, population dynamics, management, taxonomy and conservation. Additionally there were posters, and special presentations on wooded meadows and alvars, two of the types of orchid habitat that we would visit during the workshop. An alvar is sort of like a bog although alvars (shallow soil over pavement limestone) can be open to wooded. Rich plant communities composed of 70 or more species per square meter are found in the wooded meadow reserves.

The days were packed with activity and the evenings filled with discussion of new ideas. The workshop was conducted in English. Occasionally, groups would discuss something in French or in Spanish but English is a universal language understood by most investigators. There were presentations on both terrestrial and epiphytic orchids. Several discussions focused on Lepanthes sp. and one on Aspasia principissa. Deceptive strategies to attract pollinators were discussed for Calypso bulbosa, Serapias vomeracea, Dactylorhiza sambucina and Traunsteinera globosa. One interesting presentation dealt with the unusual mycorrhizal symbionts recently discovered in the roots of some European orchids. Abstracts of all presentations can be found at [button] The workshop ended with a chance to hear Estonian music and song as well as to participate in a line dance. Estonians have a tradition of choral singing.

Those who chose the optional post-conference trip were in for a treat. We traveled by ferry, a two-hour trip, from Haapsalu to Heltermaa, a port on the large island of Hiiumaa. The trip was by a large ferry which had a huge capacity for buses, trucks and cars. The modern hotel located beside the port was perfect as was the weather. We visited landscape reserves especially rich in orchid species as well as a range of other flowering plants. The long day was broken by a pleasant visit to a farm museum where we ate al fresco and shared a mug of delicious homemade beer. The Soera Farm Museum provides an insight into life in 19th century Hiuumaa. The main house has a rush (Phragmites) roof. Out buildings include an icehouse and smoke sauna. We were shown how the women kept home and hearth together while the men were at sea. Visit this site for more views of the museum. [button ]

Among the many plants seen during the field trips were: Cypripedium calceolus growing in a forest glade. The rare and shocking pink-flowered Cephalanthera rubra can be found in lightly forested alvars, places where the soil is shallow and the drainage poor. We were fortunate to see a group of blooming plants as large numbers are seldom seen. The Cephalanthera was growing with other orchids including Dactylorhiza incarnata. Common yet sometimes confusing Dactylorhiza incarnata in its many forms and sub-species was seen at almost every site visited. Some flowers had a yellowish throat patch. Others had a whitish background and still others had variable markings. Dactylorhiza ochroleuca was sometimes seen in wet areas. These can be challenging to identify.

Limestone-loving Epipactis atrorubens was not yet in flower but was abundant in the Sarve landscape reserve where the limestone forms a shingle beach. Here orchids were growing happily within a stone's throw of the seashore. The Baltic Sea is brackish, there is virtually no tide and the plants are growing on a shelf about 1-2 m above the water. I expect that fresh water from the land is continually washing any salt away and that rain does likewise. The plants are very dark reddish green and can be seen in the lower left to center of the picture. I was delighted to find a group of Platanthera chlorantha, Epipactis atrorubens, Ophrys insectifera and Listera ovata growing and blooming happily within meters of the Baltic shore! It was the Platantheras which first attracted my eye. You can see the beach in the background! As I approached for a closer look, I first saw that the plants had fruited previously. Then I spied Ophrys insectifera just behind and almost hidden in the bushes. This delicate orchid depends upon management which keeps scrub growth under control. These Fly Orchids were certainly intriguing blooms. Epipactis palustris was locally common, even growing by the road edge in one location. This orchid grows clonally, forming large patches. We occasionally would see the very elegant Gymnadenia conopsea.

There were some surprises (for me) such as the incredibly tiny Herminium monorchis which I had expected to be much taller. The plant and flower spike is about 3 inches high! In a spring-fed fen, we discovered Liparis loeselii. This orchid has been disappearing in Europe and deserves special protection.

Much of the terrain was wet but not ankle deep unless you walked into a very wet spot. The ground is not well drained and so water tends to hang around. I walked from tussock to tussock without difficulty. However, tussocks are home to plants not wanting too wet feet so one has to be careful where one steps. The land was very much like the picture posted earlier. Open to partly wooded with lots of plants blooming including orchids, geraniums, clovers, bedstraw, sedges, grasses, sundews, mosses, etc. Most exciting (for me) was seeing the Bird's Nest Orchid, Neottia nidus-avis, which is an achlorophyllous mycoheterotroph. It was growing beneath a rocky outcrop on a steep forest slope and was surrounded by the leaves of Hepatica nobilis. This was one that was easy for me to identify although I had only previously seen pictures. The flowers are a lot more attractive in nature! The Military Orchid, Orchis militaris, was found occasionally. I believe that the name Military Orchid is derived from the rigid stance of the spikes and individual flowers. Platanthera bifolia was challenging to distinguish from P. chlorantha. One has to examine the flowers closely. I was not equipped to take the really closeup pictures to show the distinguishing features. These were the best I have seen in Europe. Last but not least, we saw two plants of the Burnt Orchid, Neotinea ustulata but they were only in bud. Until recently, this orchid was known as Orchis ustulata. The name 'Burnt' refers to the dark inflorescence tip.

And now we are home or back in the office or field, inspired by the work of others, tantalized by new discoveries and enriched by new friendships and ideas. These meetings are conservation in action. Making wise use of knowledge is vital to conservation of species and their habitats. If the feeling in this meeting is a good measure, our orchids and their future are in good and capable hands.

The following picture was taken near midnight at 1/400th of a second exposure which gives us a good idea of the amount of light still visible at this hour in mid-summer. Henry David Thoreau wrote a most fitting epilogue to this Estonian experience. 'And then the sun goes down, and long the afterglow gives light. And then the damask curtains glow along the western window. And now the first star is lit, and I go home.'

Jade_in_GR
Marilyn, were you on your own searching for the orchids or did you have a guide that knew where to look???

MarilyninOttawa
Ours was a guided tour although we 'discovered' orchids on our own once at a particular reserve.

Glenis
A lovely tour Marilyn - thank-you. Do you make "Executive" decisions about conservation at these meetings?

MarilyninOttawa
Do we make executive decisions about orchids at these meetings? Well, we discuss long term plans for global conservation including investigation of orchid seed banks and population monitoring.

Jim4Eq
And how many in the party patrol trudging through the woods??

MarilyninOttawa
There were 48 registrants and most of these were present on the half day tour during the conference. We walked along a road, on a boardwalk and on paths so little damage was done to the environment. We did wander through a wooded meadow which is also visited by picnickers.

MarilyninOttawa
I believe that my greatest pleasure was to experience endless day. An inspiration!

Jade_in_GR
that would be fun but how many days could you do it without needing a little nap????

MarilyninOttawa
I did need a nap but that was not to be! I was 7 hours out of phase and our days began early (7 am) and ended late (11 pm) but it was worth every minute.

Jade_in_GR
Marilyn, what interesting place will host the next meeting???

MarilyninOttawa
That is still undecided. These meetings are held every 3 years. It is hoped that the next one could be in the Mediterranean area where there is a cold wet winter and a hot dry summer.

-end

Prechat Handout

International Orchid Workshop
Haapsalu, Estonia, June 27-July 2, 2004

Copyright Marilyn H. S. Light
July, 2004

Those of us who work with orchid populations get together every few years to present our findings and to discuss future projects. During these meetings, we learn about the local customs, experience cultural activities, and also see the local flora and fauna. The experiences are as varied as they are rich and the people we meet as interesting as the many orchids we see growing locally. What is particularly worthwhile is the mixing of students and experienced observers.

Previously, workshops have been held in the Netherlands and in the Czech Republic. The 2004 event, hosted by the Institute of Zoology and Botany, Estonian Agricultural University and the Estonian Orchid Protection Club, was held in Estonia, a new member of the European Union which is located along the southern coast of the Baltic Sea. The meeting was held in Haapsalu http://haapsalu.ee/?lng=2 in a very comfortable hotel, Hotel Promenaadi, http://www.promenaadi.ee/ located on a narrow peninsula. The sea was calm - there is virtually no tide - and because of the isolated location, it was very quiet. Only the black-headed gulls and other birds broke the silence.

Where we met was as far north as I have ever travelled. Here in mid-summer, the days are long with seemingly endless twilight. Of course winters are the opposite with very short days so as might be expected, wildlife seizes the opportunity to grow and reproduce with fervour. Some of the most abundant collections of fish and birds may be found in shallow Baltic bays. Rich plant communities composed of 70 or more species per square meter are found in the wooded meadow reserves.

Investigators from 17 countries including many European nations as well as Australia, Canada, Reunion (France), the USA and Russia shared studies on germination, pollination biology and evolution, population dynamics, management, taxonomy and conservation. Additionally there were posters, and special presentations on wooded meadows and alvars, two of the types of orchid habitat that we would visit during the workshop. The days were packed with activity and the evenings filled with discussion of new ideas.

There were presentations on both terrestrial and epiphytic orchids. Several discussions focused on Lepanthes sp. and one on Aspasia principissa. Deceptive strategies to attract pollinators was discussed for Calypso bulbosa, Serapias vomeracea, Dactylorhiza sambucina and Traunsteinera globosa. One interesting presentation dealt with the unusual mycorrhizal symbionts recently discovered in the roots of some European orchids. Abstracts of all presentations can be found at http://www.zbi.ee/Est2004/

The workshop ended with a chance to hear Estonian music and song as well as to participate in a line dance. Those who chose the optional post-conference trip were in for a treat. We travelled by ferry, a two-hour trip, from Haapsalu to Heltermaa, a port on the large island of Hiiumaa http://www.bka.hiiuloodus.ee/eng.html The modern hotel located beside the port was perfect as was the weather. We visited landscape reserves especially rich in orchid species as well as a range of other flowering plants. The long day was broken by a pleasant visit to a farm museum where we ate al fresco and shared a mug of delicious beer.

 

Among the many plants seen during the field trips were: yellow-flowered Cypripedium calceolus growing in a forest glade, rare and shocking pink-flowered Cephalanthera rubra, common yet sometimes confusing Dactylorhiza incarnata in its many forms and sub-species, limestone-loving Epipactis atrorubens, clonal E. palustris, elegant Gymnadenia conopsea, surprisingly tiny Herminium monorchis, rare Liparis loeselii, very common Listera ovata, Neottia nidus-avis (a mycoheterotroph), the Fly Orchid, Ophrys insectifera, Orchis militaris, Platanthera bifolia, and P. chlorantha. I was delighted to find a group of Platanthera, Epipactis, Ophrys and Listera growing and blooming happily within meters of the Baltic shore!

And now we are home or back in the office or field, inspired by the work of others, tantalized by new discoveries and enriched by new friendships and ideas. These meetings are conservation in action. Making wise use of knowledge is vital to conservation of species and their habitats. If the feeling in this meeting is a good measure, our orchids and their future are in good and capable hands.